Most of the north coast falls under the regency of Buleleng, once Bali’s chief port. This long contact with outside influences is reflected in the ethnic diversity of its population and as a starting place for new artistic developments which spread south. The ruling house came to power in the 17th century and conquered parts of Karangasem. Jembrana, and East Java, forming and alliance with Mengwi that lasted until the end of the 18th century when Karangasem returned to power and took Buleleng. During the mid 1800s the Dutch defeated Buleleng in their first attempt to take Bali.

The Dutch made Singaraja Bali’s first capital, which still has some colonial buildings and Chinese temples. The largest collection in Bali of lontar palm leaf books is kept at the Gedong Kertya library outside the city the sasana Budaya Art Center is more central. Out west is the tourist resort area of Lovina, with quiet black sand beaches and dolphin shows, Exciting bull races take place annually in some neighboring villages. Views are dramatic from the winding coastal road. Relax in the sulfurous Air Panas hot springs at Banjar out west, which also has a Buddhist monastery. Ice cold swim can be enjoyed at air Sanih out east, fed by cool natural springs. In the mountains south of Singaraja are the silversmith village of Bratan and the dramatic Gitgit waterfall with picnic facilities.

Higher up are beautiful views of lakes Tamblingan and Buyan, monkeys often play at the roadside. Out west are the Pulaki and Dalem Melanting and the graveside of the folk hero Jayaprana.Toward the east are the elaborately carved Pura Beji at Sangsit and Pura Maduwe Karang at Kubutambahan with the famous flower wheeled bicycle, and the beautiful Kertalangu temple and the unusual Ponjok Batu formed of countless stone slabs. The Pura Dalem temple at Jagaraga has relieves of crashing planes and car robberies, and Sawan has a foundry for making musical instruments. Sembiran has many ancient temples, and nearby Tejakula boasts some forms of ritual dance.